But he's supremely confident about the 2003 Grange to be released tomorrow with a price tag around $550 a bottle.
“It's right up there with the strong ones," Gago said today.
“We have had a number of reviews so far and the points given to it vary from 94 to 98 (out of 100) around the world from the few journalists who have seen it.
“From our perspective it's very solid, I have used the word stoic Grange – it's the real thing.
“Grange has never been the most alcoholic, or the most oaky, or highest extract, or most concentrated wine in Australia, it doesn't want to be.
“But the 03 has got all of those layers of complexity that will take it 30, 40, 50 years."
As chief winemaker at Penfolds, Gago acknowledges the pressure of making a wine officially declared a heritage icon by the National Trust of South Australia.
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