Murray's midas touch

This is a powerful wine that needs cellaring and will improve with decanting. Blood-red in the glass, it has an autumnal, vegetal character reminiscent of the forest floor. Interestingly, it is fruitier on the palate, with cherry flavours coming through. The tannins are quite lively and there is a long, spicy finish.2005 Beaune Cent Vignes, Domaine Jessiaume Père et Fils, Burgundy, France, 13%, £19.49An altogether more rounded and hedonistic wine, with soft, forward plum, raspberry and black-cherry flavours. The spiciness is present but there is an attractive suppleness too.2006 Volnay Brouillards, Domaine Jessiaume, Burgundy, France, 13%, £26.83A class act, bursting with notes of ripe cherry that sit above a gentle vegetal aroma. The palate is incredibly supple, with silky, soft tannins, while the strength of the acidity refreshes.


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