California's big reds are coming on strong these days as winemakers pursue riper, fuller-flavored fruit.
A number of wines have been creeping past 14 percent alcohol and even into the 15- to-16 percent range, as opposed to the tamer 12- to 13-percent of years past. This is largely because vintners wait longer to pick their grapes. More mature fruit is thought to make tastier wine, but it also means sugar levels have a chance to rise, which comes with the side effect of pumping up the alcohol volume. Warmer harvests only increase the phenomenon.
Some are calling for a halt to the so-called "hot wines."
"I just hate high-alcohol wines," said Randy Dunn, founder of Dunn Vineyards, who fired off an open letter last year urging consumers to demand wines of 14 percent alcohol or less.
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