Grange winemaker feels the pressure

Peter Gago feels more pressure each year when making Australia's most famous wine, Penfolds' Grange.

But he's supremely confident about the 2003 Grange to be released tomorrow with a price tag around $550 a bottle.

“It's right up there with the strong ones," Gago said today.

“We have had a number of reviews so far and the points given to it vary from 94 to 98 (out of 100) around the world from the few journalists who have seen it.

“From our perspective it's very solid, I have used the word stoic Grange – it's the real thing.

“Grange has never been the most alcoholic, or the most oaky, or highest extract, or most concentrated wine in Australia, it doesn't want to be.

“But the 03 has got all of those layers of complexity that will take it 30, 40, 50 years."

As chief winemaker at Penfolds, Gago acknowledges the pressure of making a wine officially declared a heritage icon by the National Trust of South Australia.


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Wine Review | 2005 Domaine de la Royere Cotes du Luberon

This is an amazing price for any wine with several years of aging, and still more amazing considering the quality of this southern Rhone red.

It has more elegant syrah notes than a wine of this price and appellation should, along with balance and accessibility.

A must-try for lovers of Rhone reds, it's in stock at Gentile's, Hausfrau Haven, Simplified Wine, Twisted Vine, Vincenzo's and Wine Vault.

-- Jon Christensen Dispatch wine reviewer jac@iwaynet.net

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New takes on tofu, wine at food show

Imagine wandering for hours amid tables of the best cheeses, chocolates, confections, coffees, olives, sauces, dips and chips while friendly fellow foodies beg you to take a taste. Sounds like a dream, right?

It is until about six hours in, when you'd rather have a glass of water and an antacid than another gourmet fruit and spice spread on organic macadamia flax bread.

Still, the feast that was the Global Food and Style Expo, held Sunday through Tuesday at McCormick Place, brought new and truly wonderful discoveries to Chicago restaurateurs and retailers.

Chefs, bakers, importers and artisans big and small proudly presented their goodies, showcasing both responsible practices and wild caloric abandon.

You might want to try a few of these finds:

Feeling a little under the weather? Especially this year's weather? You could try light therapy, moving to Florida, antidepressants or maybe just a Chocolate Prescription.


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Grape expectations

This is where James Loo comes to relax. It is quiet and cool. The smell of pine fills your nostrils. And the rows upon rows of bottles create a pleasing sense of order. This is his wine cellar. The cellar in his Stratton Preserve home holds more than 2,500 bottles, neatly fit into pine racks that stretch from the bamboo floor to the ceiling. The aesthetic is simple - the point is to protect his wine collection, not to impress with fancy woodwork. "The cellar is the investment that protects the real investment," said Loo, whose collection ranges from the inexpensive to the highly coveted (2002 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, anyone?). Loo is not the only one looking to safeguard his liquid investment. Wine cellars are becoming a must-have feature in highend homes. If you took a turn through the Parade of Homes last year, you might have noticed that many of the fancier homes featured a wine cellar - and the bigger, the better.


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Defining California Syrah

Respected husband and wife winemaking team, Adam and Dianna Lee, are taking the occasion of the 10th anniversary of their Novy Family Wines to make a point about California Syrah. Since being declared "hot" by the Wine Spectator nearly 10 years ago, Syrah has fallen victim to its own hype and incredible adaptability. After being planted in just about every major wine region in California, the ensuing hodge-podge of Syrah styles eventually resulted in an identity crisis and slumping sales. Seeing their own sales affected by this trend, the Lees decided it was time to take stock. With the release of their 2006 vintage, the winery has renewed their commitment to promoting California-style Syrah, sourced from cool climate sites that produce complexity rather than ripeness.

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Art lovers, get your fill

While their avian namesakes scour the desert, Denver's culture vultures flit from art gallery to eatery and back again, broadening their horizons and filling their bellies — all without emptying their wallets.

How do they live the good life and afford it too, you ask?

Join us on a few First Friday Art Walks and find out.

SANTA FE DRIVE

Overhead: Jason Rogenes' 7-foot styrofoam spaceships.

Across the way: a mixed-media installation by Jennifer Jeannelle combining (among other curiosities) bottle glass, wire mesh, rock salt and human hair.

Around the corner: the provocative photographic "myselfportraits" of Sally Stockhold as Aunt Jemima and Ethel Rosenberg in the electric chair.

Some startling and stimulating sights emerge as you mingle in the throngs of bohemian design students and handsome couples in matching blazers browsing the Museo de las Americas, Vertigo Art Space, Spark and the other galleries lining Santa Fe Drive for blocks.


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Spaghetti With Clams

Scott Conant dislikes the taste of wine used in most recipes for linguine with clam sauce, which is why he takes a minimalist approach to the dish in his recent cookbook, "Bold Italian" (Broadway Books, 2008). Calling for little more than pasta and clams, this recipe has a clean, briny flavor that lets the star ingredient shine. Start to finish: 25 minutes. Servings: 2 to 3

1¾ pounds Manila or littleneck clams (about 28)

½ pound dry spaghetti

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Large pinch crushed red pepper flakes

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

Salt, to taste

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil.

While the water heats, fill a large bowl with cool water, then add the clams.


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